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XXL SWELL AT WAIMEA BAY – HOW I OVERCAME MY FEARS TO SURF AT ONE OF THE BIGGEST DAYS IN RECENT YEARS.

The swell came in a lot earlier and bigger than predicted.  It was also the first large swell of the Hawaiian winter season. It clearly became a XXL day by mid morning and 25 foot sets closed out the Bay every 20 minutes making almost impossible to paddle out.