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xxl swell

XXL Swell at Waimea Bay – How I overcame my fears to surf at one of the biggest days in recent years.

The swell came in a lot earlier and bigger than predicted.  It was also the first large swell of the Hawaiian winter season. It clearly became a XXL day by mid morning and 25 foot sets closed out the Bay every 20 minutes making almost impossible to paddle out.   Giant Waimea Bay. Photo Terry…

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December 3, 2018